Introducing URBANE by Sassoon Professional
Architectural, technical and artistic features in hair design: This is what SASSOON is all about. The newest collection URBANE is focusing on these essential basics. The inspiration behind the collection is the bold and clean chic of Bauhaus, where the timeless aesthetic meets cool colours.
BOB meets BLONDE
Their blonde bob is the best example of this typical Bauhaus influence- the perfect classic shape with a graphic edge which stands out of a crowd. We were allowed to try out this new style in the Berlin SASSOON Salon. After the treatment we asked both their Creative Director and Master Colourist for an interview about the collection and the styles...And they let us in on some of their little secrets.
About the URBANE COLOUR:
The pro: Frieda Schultze from SASSOON Salon, Berlin
Position: Master Colourist
Which preconditions are necessary if you want to go blonde?
Before going blonde there are a few points to take into consideration from both a technical aspect (for the Colourist), and a commitment level (from the perspective of the client.) Blonde can be a “life changing” experience, and in my opinion can be a refreshing change in most peoples lives.
The best way to preparation before going blonde is:
Lets look at the technical aspects first. If the natural hair colour is very dark, then to achieve a modern clean light blonde there is probably going to be the need to pre- lighten the base colour using a Bleach or Powder Lightener. This process will remove the natural pigments in the hair, allowing the toning to create a palette of soft modern tones. If the natural base colour is reasonably light (around a mid-blonde) then the chances are that one can directly tint the desired colour into the hair, which is a less complicated procedure.
How far can you go?
The commitment aspect of the up-keep of a blonde look is an important one. A client should always consider the longevity of her/his blonde hair. The greater the difference between the natural base colour and the coloured hair, obviously the quicker a re- growth will be visible. Most blonde clients return for a root treatment between 4 to 6 weeks (so this is obviously also a cost factor to be considered). Sometimes clients like to show some of their roots off, so then the commitment level is not such an important aspect.
A good colourist will always advise a client as to which tones are an ideal combination to suit her skin tone, eye colour and lifestyle. Today, subtle combinations of varying blonde tones, using the SASSOON House Codes of shape and balance, allow us to strive to find the perfect combination between haircut and colour placement. So we are creating interesting looks, which are far more refreshing than just one all over colour.
What is new or special about the URBANE collection?
This Season The URBANE Collection is referencing all which is key to our philosophy, creating beauty through purity, removing any superfluous elements, and focusing on attention to detail. We are also celebrating the launch of 2 new blonde tones to our chromatology range, which we feel are the essence of modernity. A Cool lavander tone, which is also a fantastic “Yellow Eliminator”, and a rose blond which is soft, appealing and sexy.
What do you have to consider after the treatment at the hairdresser?
When a client has decided to “take the plunge” and go for a new blond look, she should also consider how to maintain her hairstyle at home. Here the choice of Products for her “Take Home Regime” is important to her appearance and the Longevity of her Colour. At SASSOON we use the 5 steps to Blonde Perfection. We start with the Cut, followed by prestige colour service. Gentle shampooing and conditioning the hair with our Illuminating Range. Finishing off protecting the hair. We have developed a fabulous Oil, which is a fantastic addition to our SASSOON Professional Range, and supports the needs of blonde coloured hair, without weighing it down, and making it greasy. This also moisturizes, and gives shine to all coloured hair types. It can be added to our Illuminating Restore Luxury Treatment, for an intensive Moisture Boost once a week, or used as a styling support, which can be dried into the hair during the styling and finishing procedure.
About the URBANE CUT:
The pro: Niels Pauli from SASSOON Salon, Berlin
Position: Creative Director
What is the new SASSOON collection URBANE all about?
URBANE is mainly about reflecting the ways austerity in architecture can influence Hair Design.
We have such a strong architectural heritage at SASSOON – our design philosophy is directly inspired by the Bauhaus, the experimental school of design and cradle of modernism active in the 1920s. We felt that by creating a collection based on the SASSOON House Codes of purity, form following function, and the concept of shape and balance, we were getting back to the basics of Hair Design.
The bob is a timeless cut – why has it stayed so popular over the years and what makes it so iconic compared to other styles?
It ́s much harder to cut a flawless line (the bob's main element), than to work on a layered hairstyle in which irregularities can ́t be seen because the movement of such layers usually hide them within the overall look. It`s all about attention to detail. Actually it ́s the most versatile and appreciative hairstyle of all, I would say. Spending time with the client on planning out the angle and length is essential.
Im thinking of timeless, iconographic looks of differing "bobs" that vary, like Isadora Duncan ́s 20 ́s box bob to an almost grown out looking long version of it on the likes of Keira Knightley or Alexa Chung. The concept of modernizing a bob silhouette by sliming it technically with disconnected internal lengths is also something we can do. Modern disconnection can be suited to any hair shape regardless of length or texture and provides the wearer with a more interesting personalized cut. When applied in the right area, disconnection lends any form a more exciting dynamic.
What are the main styles you like to focus on if you cut a bob nowadays?
I really do believe in tailor made. When it comes to hair, this means that before we even start to talk about a specific style of hair, we take a good look at the shape of a client`s face and their bone structure. These are key to assess the perfect fit. When one's eye is trained on that, you will always decide for a length and shape that ́s individually suited. Lines within the face, such as one's cheekbones or jawline, can accentuate personal features with fitted angles and a personalized framework.
Could you name certain shapes of a face, which are a perfect fit for the cut?
Shape and balance is the concept we follow at SASSOON. That means that consulting the client on cut and colour is executed by the Colourist and Stylist prior to the service so we both know what we are working towards.
The color comes first, and then the shape is cut - which points you are focussing on by then?
I ́m working from wet to dry. That means that length and shape are cut first, and once blow-dried I`m refining the result.
Styling & treating the bob the right way – what do you recommend?
Healthy hair means keeping it in good condition. Highlighting and colouring, or as in
this case bleaching it, means that the hair needs extra care. So we developed the illuminating product pallet to meet the needs of chemically treated hair. of We highly recommend following our 5 steps of Blonde Perfection and of course even the most thoroughly executed cut needs refreshing after six to eight weeks.
A technique I like to use on medium length hair is “wrap drying” which means you wrap the hair around the head while brushing it in the direction it grows. The Cuticle (first layer of hair) closes and therefor the reflected light of the closed surface makes the hair appear more shiny.
BEFORE & AFTER